Book for presentation

Uploaded own photographs to Photobox & designed the layout using their website and printing facilities to show a aesthetically beautiful representation of the centre and the equines they care for. 

Presenting Research

Ive created a power point presentation to put all my information together: (see notes underneath) I'm also presenting some of my primary research (photographs) into a book for presentation. 

Equine Presentation from Melissa Morris

PRESENTATION.

1.    I chose to focus upon the overall theme of Equines because of my passion for animals from a young age.

2.    I first began learning to ride in Primary school when I was around 12 years old, this initial introduction to a wonderful sport led to me continuing learning such a wonderful skill.

3.    I recently had to stop this hobby as I moved to Leeds and this is why I wanted to revisit it for the summer as it is something I thoroughly enjoy. I learnt quite a lot about the actual skill as a child but there are many aspects to equines that I still want to learn.

4.    I recently rewatched a documentary on equines and the relationship we have gained with them. This documentary was with Martin Clunes and at the beginning he states:

Is there any animal as graceful or beautiful... or more powerful as a horse? More than any other creature they've helped us shape our world. For generations they've carried us on their backs across continents and into battle. What's the secret of our bond with these gentle giants? How did we get so close to such a nervous shy animal?

5.    Jean Francois Pignon is a French Horse trainer who appeared on the documentary. He’s done many shows, which include events such as Olympia. Within the documentary Martin Clunes asks him if the horses see him as simply the one who asks them to do things.

He replied: when you are a human, naturally you are the leader, you are dominant. But if you have no love in your heart you abuse them. The horse is very sensitive. The whole time he scans you and if you are not stable inside he will think "you are not comfortable for me". When the horse doesn't know a human they think- he wants to eat me- but if you are not aggressive you can take the place of protector instead of predator.

6.    The relationship between humans and horses is incredibly strong and they’ve been one of the animals, which have helped us throughout the years- they’ve been engrained into our world for example terms such as “horsepower” in relation to cars.

Horses allow us to ride on their backs because they trust us and there is a mutual respect on both parts, however what happens when this trust is broken? What drove my passion for this research project is my love for horses but also my passion to ensure animals are cared for correctly. There are so many charities, which do fantastic work for these beautiful animals, but I chose to focus on a local charity.

7.    The local charity I chose is HAPPA: Horses And Ponies Protection Association.

HAPPA was founded in 1937 by Miss Mona Huskie. It is one of the oldest and most respected charities for equine welfare and was founded to help fight against the transportation of large horses to the continent for slaughter.

"Minimum Values" legislation effectively prevents low value horses, ponies and donkeys from suffering the pain and distress of a long journey to slaughterhouses in mainland Europe. The minimum value is set just above the meat value of equines of various heights. If their value is below that figure it is presumed that the equines are going for slaughter and will not be granted an export licence.

8.    The centre can cares for around 60 equines at any one time and can spend around 19,000 to run the centre per week. They treat each equine as an individual based on their needs. The centre doesn’t sell the equines, instead they place them into suitable loan permanent homes.

9.    I spoke to quite a few of the staff at the centre which included the manager: “Some people tend to think that as an organisation we operate as a sanctuary but our main aim really is to rescue and rehabilitate horses to their full potential to be able to rehome them. We have started to back and break in more horses so that more can be rehomed as rideable equines however we do also rehome some animals as companions. Horses like to live in a herd and love company so we often find that owners of retired racehorses rehome some of our equines too.”

We have also just launched a new second chance sponsorship scheme where people can given one pound a week to sponsor an animal with the opportunity being that horses will be able to find there forever home as the majority of them do.

10.  HAPPA are continuously pushing their goals in rescue, rehabilitation and rehoming equines into forever homes. The grooms are incredibly dedicated and after speaking to them most of them also have horses themselves.

11.  Rehabilitation can take a few months or a long time, it depends on the state of the equines when they come into HAPPA’s care. It can also consist of physical rehabilitation of wounds, illness and perhaps gaining weight. However the rehabilitation is also mental too, equines are sensitive and for some horses it can take a long time to trust humans again.

12.  The second hand sponsorship allows for all equines at the centre a second chance at finding a caring forever home. The money collected goes towards their rehabilitation and care. I sponsored one of the younger horses Joey who had been brought to the centre with another horse who was left to fly graze in a dangerous area. Fly grazing is illegal and in short is when horses are left to graze on private land without permission.

13.  The patron for HAPPA is Sir Paul McCartney and was the first to sponsor one of the horses. The sponsorship lasts for one year and costs less than one pound a week. You also receive a pack with all sorts of written material and general goodies. Ive brought the pack if anyone wants to have a look through afterwards.

14. Ive included one case study into this, which one of the grooms spoke to me about at length. Autumn, 13hh dark bay Dartmoor mare, was brought into the Centre in September 2011.

Autumn had been abandoned and left to roam for approximately 9 months in the Shafton area of Barnsley, South Yorkshire. She had been terrorised by hooligans who found their entertainment by chasing her on quad bikes. Other unruly children subjected her to further trauma by throwing bricks at her.

This little pony had to be darted in order to take her safety to our Rescue Centre and was a quivering wreck on arrival. She had completely lost all trust in humans and her rehabilitation has taken quite a while.

15.  However her recovery has been incredibly successful as now she is fully rideable and recently was awarded 60% at a Dressage competition. It was unbelievable to hear about how long it has taken to work with her into what she is now. Both mentally and physically she has blossomed and it’s unbelievable to think how she was treated in 2011.

16.  In terms of target audience, HAPPA appeals to all horse lovers, which is generally all genders and age groups. But they do hold specific events for children such as “own a pony day” which is an educational insight into horse care. They also have craft days for children in their centre and recently had a visit from CBEEBIES. HAPPA also appeals to elderly people as they hold luncheons with different themes on weekdays- one including a celebration of the 100 year Anniversary of World War 1.

17.  As a form of research I took lots of my own photographs at the centre and have displayed them into a printed book, which can be viewed after the presentation if anyone is interested.

18.   When talking to the staff at the centre they gave me a whole range of different leaflets on aspects to horse care and this made me realise that equines are complex animals to look after. Education of children and adults/communities could really improve the welfare of horses and therefore lower the numbers of equines taken into care.

HAPPA & RSPCA agree that currently England (UK) is in an Equine crisis. Horses recently have been rehomed for free or for as little as £5 because people can't cope with the responsibility. There have been more cases of equine cruelty and neglect over the past year and HAPPA alone answered 3000 calls to their Shore Hey Centre. 

19.  I think it is important that people should understand the costs involved with caring for a horse but also the time that you must put into caring for them. An equine can cost its owner from anywhere between £3,000 and £10,000 a year for just general care and maintenance.

20.  As stated at the beginning of this presentation Horses and other equines have helped humans throughout the years and it’s important that we continue to be the protectors as we promised. I’ve really enjoyed pursuing and researching into a topic I’m really passionate about and I hope you’ll come and have a little look at the material ive brought in.

Costs

To put into context the amount of money and care a horse needs as maintenance I researched into what costs are to be expected with having your own horse. 

Initial cost 

The prices of a horse initially can really vary but the majority tend to be priced around 1-2000 pounds. But competition horses can be bought for quite a few thousand. 

Stabling/ Livery

Costs vary depending on the type of livery offered.

Grass Livery can be expected to cost in the region of £20-£25 per week:

This type of livery provides the horse owner with a field in which to keep their horse. The horse owner is responsible for all care and feeding of the horse on a daily basis. This type of livery requires the horse owner to attend to the horse every day even if no feeding is necessary, in order to ascertain that the horse has suffered no injury or illness each day.

DIY Stable Livery can be expected to cost around £30-£40 per week:

This type of livery provides the horse owner with a stable in which to keep their horse and a field or paddock in which to turn their horse out during the day. The horse owner is responsible for all care including mucking out, turning the horse out to the field and bringing the horse in from the field and feeding of the horse on a daily basis. Bedding and hay are often not included and the horse owner must purchase these separately, although some livery yards may offer DIY stabled livery at a higher price with bedding and hay included. This type of livery requires the horse owner to attend to the horse in the morning and evening of every day.

Full Livery can be expected to cost in the region of £100-£150 per week:

In addition to providing the horse owner with a stable in which to keep their horse and a field in which to turn their horse out during the day, full livery usually also includes bedding, hay and feed. Livery yard staff are responsible for all care including mucking out, turning out the horse to the field and bringing the horse in from the field and feeding of the horse on a daily basis. Some livery yards may include exercising of the horse within their full livery service. This type of livery is ideal for the horse owner whose busy schedule does not give them the time to care for their horse on a daily basis.

Any care of the horse or duties carried out by staff at the livery yard will cost extra.

Hay, Straw and Shavings

For horses kept on grass livery hay is normally only required to be fed in winter when grass is scarce and the amount required will vary depending on the type and size of horse or pony. It should be expected that some hay will be needed to be fed for around 5 months of the year with up to £10 a week being added to the grass livery costs during the severest winter weeks when grass is totally unavailable.

For stabled horses hay is required all year round to compensate for the lack of access to grass whilst stabled and so can add around £10 a week to the livery costs throughout the year. Also some form of stable bedding is required, usually straw or shavings, and this can add a further £10-£20 per week to the livery costs throughout the year.

Feed

The amount of feed a horse will require will depend on the type and size of horse, its exercise routine and whether it it is stabled or at grass.

A hardy horse or pony living out all year and only receiving light exercise may need little additional feed, if any. However a horse receiving regular exercise may require some hard feed and a stabled horse, with regular strenuous exercise will most often need additional feed throughout the year at a cost of around £5-10 a week.

Vet's Fees and Insurance

A horse or pony requires annual inoculations against Influenza and Tetanus and this can be expected to cost in the region of £35 a year for the vaccination plus around £35 call out charge from the vet.

Vet's fees in cases of illness or accident can be costly, and rather than risk having to pay out several hundred or thousand pounds for an incident many owners prefer to insure their horse against such fees. The cost of insurance to cover vets fees will vary depending on the type of cover taken and the value of the horse or pony but should be expected to cost in the region £20-£40 per month or more.

Farrier

A horse's feet continually grow and so even if unshod will require regular visits from the farrier for trimming. Whether shod or not the horse will require attention from the farrier every 6 weeks and this can cost around £25 for trimming and £50-£55 for shoeing per visit.

Dentist

It is recommended that a horse has its teeth checked by a vet or equine dentist every year to ensure that there are no sharp edges or other tooth problems that may be the cause of discomfort to the horse. When problems occur more regular visits may be needed. A dentist visit costs around £50-£70 per visit.

Worming

Horses and ponies need to be regularly wormed whether stabled or at grass. Worming costs around £10-£15 and is usually required every 6-8 weeks.

Extras

Although the main regular costs of owning a horse are listed above there are always unexpected costs that occur such as when a horse casts a shoe and needs an extra farrier visit, an injury or illness requiring veterinary attention or stabling and feed whilst recovering. In addition it is often necessary to purchase medical products for minor cuts, shampoos, tack and rugs, etc may need repairing or replacing. All such costs can add to the cost of owning a horse over a year. Therefore it is always best to factor in at least £1,000 per annum for extras when calculating the cost of keeping a horse.

The table below gives a summary of the regular costs mentioned above of keeping a horse on an annual basis:

http://www.equine-world.co.uk/buying_horses/cost_horse.asp

So depending on circumstances owning a horse can cost anything from around £3,000 to £10,000. I think this information is really important to let potential owners know about. You can't simply own a horse without all of these costs to their upkeep. So before buying a horse these financial considerations should be considered as well as having a knowledge of horse care. 

Basic Care:

Environment:

Make sure that where your horse lives is secure and free from hazards, this includes ensuring fences are in good condition and escape-proof. 

Horses need large amounts of exercise to remain healthy. All horses should have access to a paddock where they can exercise every day, in the company of other horses, for as long as possible.

When out in a paddock, horses must have access to shelter from sun, wind and extremes of weather or temperature. They must have dry areas to stand and lie down on; living in cold,wet or muddy conditions can lead to discomfort or illness.

A horse can become ill or show abnormal behaviour if it is confined to a stable for long periods of time. If your horse is stabled, ensure all areas of your horse’s environment are well ventilated, clean and draught-free.  

Stabled horses are more likely to be exposed to germs, toxic dust and fumes. They need good quality, dust-free bedding to lie upon. Ensure bedding is kept clean.

Have a plan to deal with emergencies such as fire in buildings and flooding of land or buildings.

Transport can be stressful for horses. When you transport your horse, make sure it is comfortable and safe at all times.  

Ensure the size and temperature of any place you leave your horse (including a trailer or horsebox) is appropriate.

Diet: (also see leaflets from HAPPA)

Horses must have continuous access to fresh clean water.

Horses should be provided with as much opportunity to graze as possible. Twenty-four hour access is ideal. Without it they can develop disorders of the gut and stomach ulcers.

Not all pasture provide adequate nutrition and many will be too high in calories. Horses may still need additional hard feed and forage to maintain their appropriate bodyweight, particularly between late autumn and early spring.

Horses fed diets low in forage and high in concentrates (hard feeds such as cubes or grains) are at risk of digestive problems. Stabled horses should be given plenty of forage. 

Horses should be fed only good quality, mould and dust-free forage.

Changes in your horse’s lifestyle, such as increased or reduced work, movement on and off pasture, pregnancy, lactation and ageing will require changes to your horse’s diet. An equine nutritionist or an equine vet can advise you.

Rapid changes in diet can result in illness. Any changes to your horse’s diet must be introduced gradually, over a period of around two weeks.

Horses must be fed only diets designed for horses. They  must not be given lawn clippings or access to large amounts of fermentable foods such as apples as they can be fatally toxic.

Horses should not become overweight. Horses and particularly ponies who are overweight are  prone to developing laminitis, a very painful disorder of the feet. A common factor triggering laminitis is feeding on lush spring and autumn grass.

Speak to your vet about how at risk your horse may be of developing laminitis and how you can help reduce that risk.

Remove toxic plants, shrubs and tress such as ragwort and yew from paddocks and other areas. Toxic plants, even if they are dead, must be dug up and taken completely out of the reach of horses. If your horse’s feeding habits change, consult your vet, as your horse could be ill.

Ragwort:

Behaviour:

Horses must be given the opportunity to run freely in a paddock as frequently as possible and for as long as possible, in the company of other horses.

Take the time to learn how your horse learns so that you can train him humanely and effectively. Be careful to use training aids your horse understands and use them in a consistent manner.

Horses can be trained using positive, reward-based methods. Do not shout at or punish your horse as fear of punishment can cause a horse to become aggressive or develop behaviour problems.

Take time to learn how your horse normally behaves. If your horse starts exhibiting abnormal behaviour or its behaviour changes away from its normal behaviour, you should seek immediate advice from an equine specialist vet as they could be ill or suffering.

You should not use anti-cribbing collars, anti-weaving grilles or other devices that simply attempt to stop the performance of abnormal behaviour. Using these devices can cause further welfare problems. Instead, get advice to tackle causes such as stress isolation or boredom.

Company:

Horses are social animals they should not be housed alone in individual paddocks or pens, as this prevents the performance of social behaviour.

Horses should be allowed as much time as possible in paddocks interacting freely with other horses. Isolated horses may experience high levels of stress which can lead to abnormal behaviour.

Stabling should be designed with partitions which allow horses to see and interact with their neighbours, including allowing them to put their heads over stable doors. Horses which do not get on well with each other should not be stabled next to each other or put in the same paddock.

To minimise aggression, horses should be kept in the same groups each time they are let out into paddocks.

Where it is necessary to introduce new horses into groups, they should be carefully observed to ensure that they do not receive excessive aggression. Unfamiliar horses may squeal at, threaten, bite or kick each other when first introduced.

Sufficient space should be available to allow horses to get away from others and avoid being cornered. The whole group should be checked for signs of injury more frequently than normal.

Health:

Check your horse for signs of injury and illness daily. Make sure someone does this if you’re away.

Consult a vet if you suspect that your horse is in pain, ill or injured. A change in the way a horse behaves can be an early sign.

Worm and vaccinate your horse against equine influenza and tetanus regularly. You may also consider vaccinating against equine herpes virus.

Learn to recognise lameness. If your horse becomes lame it should not be worked and you should consult your vet.

Inspect hooves daily, including the underside of the foot. Overgrown or unbalanced hooves can cause severe discomfort and damage to the internal structure of the feet, legs and back.

Your horse should be seen by a farrier registered with the Farriers’ Registration Council every four to six weeks, even if they are unshod.

Horses’ teeth erupt through the gums continuously. They can develop hooks and sharp edges which can cause painful injuries inside the mouth. Get them  checked by an equine vet or qualified equine dental technician at least annually.

Poorly fitting tack can cause injury and pain, as can poor riding technique or riding by people too heavy for the horse. All tack should be checked regularly for proper fit and properly maintained.

Before allowing horses to breed, check with your vet. Ensure provisions have been made to care for both parents and offspring. There is currently an overpopulation crisis. We would encourage/ask you not to breed.

Before buying a horse, find out what health and behaviour problems it has or may be prone to. Always check with your vet if you are unsure about anything.

Only use medicines and feed additives recommended for your horse by experts; they can be dangerous if given to the wrong animal. Use and store them according to the instructions.

Insure your horse to help cover the cost of veterinary treatment.

Safety around horses:

• Be calm and quiet. Sudden moves can cause a horse to shy (jump sideways) or kick out.
• The safest way to lead a horse is with a halter and lead rope. Don't hook your fingers through the halter straps, rings or the bit. If the horse pulls away, your fingers could be caught, injuring them or catching your hand so that you are dragged.
• Never stand directly behind a horse. If you are grooming its tail, stand to one side and pull the tail gently over.
• When cleaning a horse's hooves or putting on leg bandages, don't squat or kneel. Bend over so that if the horse moves you can get out of the way quickly.
• Never loop lead ropes, longe lines, or reins around your hands or any other body part. If your horse pulls away, you could be dragged.
• Feed treats from buckets or tubs. Horses can very quickly become greedy and mistake fingers for carrots.
• Wear sturdy shoes or boots that will protect your feet if your horse or pony steps on them. No sandals or thin shoes!
• When tying use a quick release knot or panic snap so that if your horse gets scared and pulls he can quickly be freed. The feeling of being constrained can make a scared horse panic to the point of hurting himself or you.
• The safest place to stand is beside your horse's shoulder where you can see each other, or about 10 or more feet away.
• When grooming, saddling up, or cleaning your horse's stall, tie your horse up. A loose horse in a barn can cause havoc. And don't leave a tied horse unattended.
• When going through a doorway, make sure the door is wide open so the horse doesn't hit itself on it. This can startle the horse and result in you being trampled or dragged.

http://horses.about.com/od/basiccare/a/horsesafety.htm

Care from books including tack & stable management: